Brighten up
Defeat discoloration and score fantastic skin
30 Dec 2021
The quest for a radiant complexion at any age doesn’t have to be daunting. We’ve gathered viable ways to defeat discoloration and score fantastic skin
words MELANIE RUD
Table of Contents
No matter your complexion, there’s one goal that seems to be universal: glowing skin. Maybe you’re satisfied with the state of your skin but want a little radiance. Maybe you’re trying to knock out a few stubborn dark marks for a more even tone. Maybe it’s a bit of both. Fun fact: it’s been proven that even skin colour distribution is a major influence on perceived skin health*. But there are many reasons discoloration occurs, requiring different treatment. Your skin tone also needs to be taken into account, given its impact on how many conditions manifest. Here, derms explain how to tackle the causes of hyperpigmentation for healthy, balanced skin.
IF YOU HAVE Sun-induced changes
• When your skin is exposed to the sun and isn’t protected with sunscreen, melanocytes – the skin cells that are responsible for producing melanin or pigment – go into overdrive. ‘It’s a protective response. Your skin is producing extra melanin to shield the internal structure of the skin cells and their DNA,’ says Dr Claire Chang, a dermatologist at UnionDerm. That extra pigment then shows up as brown spots.
The skin tone factor
Broadly speaking, people with lighter skin are more susceptible to experiencing visible sun-induced discoloration, says Dr Jordan Carqueville, founder and medical director of the Derm Institute of Chicago. Darker skin types have more melanin and different types of it, which means they have slightly more natural sun protection compared to people with lighter skin, says Dr Chang. However, experts are quick to underscore the fact that this does not – we repeat, does not – mean those with darker skin tones get a free pass. Not to mention, just because you may not see as many spots on darker skin doesn’t mean other signs of sun damage (think collagen and elastin breakdown) aren’t happening.
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Treatment plan
Daily sunscreen is non-negotiable, but alongside that, vitamin C is one of the best ingredients to look for. It’s an antioxidant that neutralises damaging free radicals caused by sun exposure and brightens the skin by inhibiting the action of tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for pigment production, says Dr Chang. (It can also help fade existing dark spots.) Use it in the AM before sunscreen and reach for a retinoid at night.
If you’re ready to up the ante with a clinic treatment, lighter skin types can consider intense pulsed light (IPL). This is ‘a magic eraser for sun damage’, says dermatologist Dr Corey L Hartman. If you have darker skin, opt for microneedling. Three sessions spaced at six- to eight-week intervals should do it.
IF YOU HAVE Melasma
• Melasma is unique in the way it shows up in widespread patches on the cheeks or forehead, or above the upper lip. You may have heard it called ‘the mask of pregnancy’ because hormonal fluctuations (any kind, not just those associated with pregnancy) play a key role here, says Dr Hartman. While the exact cause is unknown, any combo of hormones, sun exposure and heat can trigger the onset.
The skin tone factor
‘I see melasma equally across patients of all skin types,’ says Dr Chang, who adds that it’s a genetic factor and/or familial link, rather than your skin colour, that makes you more predisposed to this particular condition.
Treatment plan
Melasma is one of the most challenging types of discoloration to treat because the pigment can exist in both the superficial epidermal layer of the skin and the deeper dermal ones, says Dr Carqueville. Targeting it in both layers will yield the best results, but that’s tricky to do. For surface discoloration, dermatologists generally recommend in-clinic peels. You’ll need two to four visits to see results. If clinic peels don’t help, the pigment is likely deeper in the skin. There are laser treatments that can help, but proceed with caution as some can exacerbate melasma. Dr Chang says the Clear + Brilliant laser (from £ for a single treatment) is a good, safe option for all skin types.
THE ROAD TO GLOW
Pick your treatment player from this scale of accessible options (listed from mild to major) to help you achieve your goals
NIACINAMIDE
This do-it-all ingredient calms redness and scarring, and plays nicely with sensitive types. Versed Out Of Sight Dark Spot Gel (versedskin.com)
AZELAIC ACID
A tyrosinase inhibitor can help fade pigmentation and prevent spots.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Paula's Choice BOOST 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Cream Gel, Licorice Extract &...
- CLARIFY SKIN, SOOTHE IRRITATION: This highly effective serum booster is a multi-action powerhouse, featuring Azelaic Acid, known to reduce the look of blemishes and acne, while also helping to fade brown spots and marks from previous acne breakouts.
- CLARIFY SKIN, SOOTHE IRRITATION: This highly effective serum booster is a multi-action powerhouse, featuring Azelaic Acid, known to reduce the look of blemishes and acne, while also helping to fade brown spots and marks from previous acne breakouts.
- Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster also contains salicylic acid (BHA) a gentle exfoliator. The multi-tasking formula boasts a lightweight, oil-free texture that works beautifully on its own or mixed with other acne treatments, like benzoyl peroxide.
- Use this booster alone or add a couple drops to a moisturizer twice daily as part of your morning & evening skin care. Use along with your favorite Paula's Choice cleanser, toner, exfoliator, spot treatments & moisturizer with SPF for daytime wear.
- Paula's Choice products are made with YOUR SKIN in mind. Whatever your skincare concern, whether dryness, acne, fine lines, or sensitive skin; we've got a treatment line for you. The search for amazing skin care ends here. Finally, you found it.
- Paula's Choice Skincare makes products that work. No fragrance, no parabens, no fluff. Just effective, science-backed formulas that target any concern from wrinkles to breakouts.
SLOW AND STEADY: Ease into retinol: use it only every third day until skin adjusts
VITAMIN C
Among its talents, vitamin C helps even skin tone and offers antioxidant protection.
Medik8 C-Tetra Serum
Medik8 C E-Tetra Pro Collagen Vitamin C Serum, 1 Fl Oz
- Low irritation Vitamin C formula
- Powerful Vitamin C + E Antioxidant Serum
- Helps protect the skin from free radicals
- Helps to minimises pigmentation marks
- Assists in preventing premature skin aging
- Low irritation Vitamin C formula
- Powerful Vitamin C + E Antioxidant Serum
- Helps protect the skin from free radicals
- Helps to minimises pigmentation marks
- Assists in preventing premature skin aging
RETINOIDS
Slough off skin cells and boost collagen production to stave off wrinkles, too.
StriVectin Advanced Retinol Nightly Renewal Moisturizer
TRANEXAMIC ACID
This mask works overtime to treat uneven patches and brighten skin.
The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Night Treatment
CHEMICAL PEELS:
Quick yet effective, these have come a long way since Samantha tried one on SATC.
CLEAR + BRILLIANT LASER
A good melasma-fighting in-clinic treatment that’s safe for all skin and won’t leave you wanting to hide for days.
MICRONEEDLING
Microchannels in the skin allow topical ingredients to better penetrate – and be more effective – says Dr Carqueville.
IPL TREATMENT
Ideal for lighter skin, as it targets both brown and red discoloration (bye, broken blood vessels!).
FYI: IPL requires three treatments with two(ish) days of redness and flaking after each
LASER LIMITS: Some can exacerbate melasma pigment due to the heat they deliver; go to a trusted derm
PICOSURE LASER
Best for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), this laser is able to target pigment deep within the skin and works on all tones.
IF YOU HAVE Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Also known as PIH, this discoloration occurs as a response to inflammation in the skin that can be caused by anything from eczema, acne or bug bites, to burns and surgical incisions. ‘When there’s inflammation, the skin cells are disrupted and melanin spills out,’ says Dr Carqueville. It’s for this reason that Dr Hartman refers to PIH as ‘a stain of inflammation’.
The skin tone factor
PIH shows up differently based on your skin tone. In darker skin, where there’s more melanin that can ‘spill out’, it manifests as dark spots. In lighter skin tones, PIH manifests as red spots – a result of increased red blood cells brought to the area to heal the inflammation, says Dr Carqueville.
Treatment plan
The best way to treat PIH depends on your skin colour. (Though one common denominator is avoiding inciting fire in the first place – eg, not popping spots, picking scabs etc.) Topically, anti-inflammatory niacinamide is a safe bet that may be used for pigmentation in general, says Dr Chang. One to try: Versed Out Of Sight Dark Spot Gel (versedskin.com), which combines niacinamide with several other brightening ingredients, such as liquorice root extract and kojic acid. Another ingredient experts recommend to treat hyperpigmentation is tranexamic acid given that it’s suitable for all skin types and skin tones, and safe to use during pregnancy.
Keep in mind that the pigment associated with PIH is found far down in the skin, meaning lasers (which can work on those deep layers) will give the best results. That said, not all lasers are created equal; some can burn and scar darker skin. A safer bet for all skin types dealing with this situation? A Picosure laser treatment, recommends Dr Hartman.
Up your (sun)screen time
Sun exposure makes every type of skin discoloration worse and will thwart pretty much any of your treatment attempts. That’s why daily use of a broad-spectrum formula with at least SPF30 is imperative.
Dr Dennis Gross Skincare All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF30 (spacenk.com). Sheer and light, it blends into skin so seamlessly you’ll forget you’re wearing it.
This oil-free mineral pick is ideal for acne- prone skin
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